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whanganui
Cut loose in a canoe or ‘boot
it’ deep into the interior of the largest tract of primeval
lowland forest in the North Island.
The Whanganui National Park is based around New Zealand’s
longest navigable river, the Whanganui, which rises on Mt
Tongariro and runs 329 km to the Tasman Sea. The upper reaches
are wrapped in a dense mantle of forest, spread over an endless
succession of razorback ridges that are largely road less and
trackless. This is what makes ‘exploration’ by canoe or
on foot so appealing to outdoor adventurers. A float trip down
the river from Taumaranui to Pipiriki takes you through wild
rapids and majestic river gorges, with moss, ferns and
‘goblin’ forest clinging onto sheer walls laced with
waterfalls. An ‘expedition’ on foot along ancient Maori
trails penetrates so deep into the forest that transport out
usually involves a boat rendezvous at a point where the track
meets the river.
The Matemateaonga Walkway is one of New Zealand’s best
tramps. The 42 km track starts inland from New Plymouth and
follows an old settler’s dray road and Maori trails to reach
to Whanganui River, staying in 5 huts along the way. The
Mangapurua Track runs 40 km between Whakahoro and Mangapurua
Landing on the river, taking 3 to 4 days. The broadleaf/podocarp
forest in the park contains varied bird life including fantail,
tui, bellbird, robin and grey warbler. The little brown kiwi can
sometimes be heard at night. Commercial jet boat trips on the
river take in many scenic and historic sites. The most popular
run is from Pipiriki to the ‘Bridge To Nowhere’, a
monument in the wilderness to a pioneering farm settlement that
was abandoned.
The Whanganui region is rich in Maori and colonial history. The
river was once the only route into the interior and part of the
Wellington to Auckland ‘highway’. History is part of
the park experience, and the gateway visitor centres at
Taumaranui and Pipiriki give you a taste of this in their
displays.
Camp in a bush clearing or riverside terrace and savour that
special feeling of being completely remote from civilization.
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